Writer Leonie Jarrett, enjoyed the Antarctica in Depth voyage with her husband in December 2023. To celebrate the end of our fourth successful season on the White Continent, we share her impressions on what it's like to cruise this icy wonderland on board Scenic Eclipse.
“Scenic Eclipse delivered all we hoped. And much more.", Leonie Jarrett
The luxurious Scenic Eclipse experience
Scenic Eclipse is beautiful inside and out. So majestic on the outside and so luxurious and sophisticated on the inside.
Everyone from the Captain to the crew is incredibly friendly and helpful. There is a 24-hour open bridge policy, so you can spend time with them and learn about the Discovery Yacht, your destination and their personal (and fascinating stories). We did this most days, chatting to the bridge team and inhaling the wonderful views – it's the best vantage point on the ship.
There's so much to explore on the Discovery Yacht, and Scenic's truly all-inclusive philosophy makes it even more enjoyable and easier to relax from the moment you step on board. To mention but a few things, there’s the powerful binoculars in your suite, where you'll also find a coffee machine to use whenever you like and mini bar that's restocked daily by the butler. The self-service laundrette, the gym and the yoga and Pilates classes were also some of the inclusions we really enjoyed.
And of course, there's the exceptional food and drinks (all day; not just with meals). Scenic Eclipse truly takes food to the Nth Degree. The food variety and quality on board was unbelievable. There are fine dining restaurants (make sure to make your reservation for these) and several other more relaxed, but still delicious options. We sampled and enjoyed them all. Our favorite was Lumière, with contemporary French dining cuisine. The menu there changes every few days, so there is always something new to try. Dinner was an incredible, well-thought-out experience, a true gastronomic delight.
LEFT: The beautiful Scenic Eclipse moored beside Enterprise Island
Scenery and wildlife
Each suite has a verandah, so every guest has a view of the passing birds and whales, the unique penguin species, the glaciers and the snow-covered peaks. We saw so many Gentoo, Chinstrap and Adélie penguins on this cruise, and even spotted a couple of eggs being jealously guarded. We saw seals and a huge variety of birds from Antarctic skuas to enormous Wandering Albatrosses. Watching Humpback whales and a pod of orcas playing is a memory that will stay with us forever.
We felt so privileged. Privileged to be in such a pristine environment, to be seeing such beauty and grandeur and to be one of the few people who have ever visited Antarctica. We could enjoy cobalt-blue skies, see the snowy peaks reflecting in the sea, and witness falling snow, which was so exciting for us, coming from Australia.
The exquisite ice was also a highlight. We saw clear and dimpled ice, opaque and blue, icebergs of all shapes and sizes. In one of the daily excursions, we landed on a beach that was literally a gallery of ice sculptures. Some icebergs look like meringue, smoothed out with a palette knife. Others look like white cliffs; sharp and sheer. Some icebergs are small, just little blobs of ice floating on the water, whilst others are bigger than Scenic Eclipse. The ones with little turquoise “swimming pools” in them or that looked like were illuminated from within would always make us gasp. You'll leave with the certainty that icebergs are true works of art –and that is just what you can see, as most of an iceberg is hidden under the water.
RIGHT: Penguins gossiping at Half Moon Bay, South Shetland Islands
The heart of your voyage: The Discovery Team
The Discovery Team is equipped to handle some of the toughest challenges. With up to 20 experts, they include specialists on birds, ice, sea mammals, naturalists and a historian. It's fascinating how they all behave as if this is their first ever time at the landing site or seeing whales – their enthusiasm and willingness to help is absolutely next level, truly captivating. We would often spot them, off duty, all gathered exclaiming at humpbacks and orcas, or photographing seabirds. You realize that this is truly a passion job.
During our daily excursions, the Discovery Team will help you if you are finding the snowy paths slippery, will assist you on and off the Zodiacs, offer to take photos and also give you tips on how to take the best ones. All on top of their incredible, specialized knowledge. There was an infectious joy at everything they saw and showed to us.
We loved the adventurous feeling of being in Antarctica and the discovery activities. The Zodiac cruises were exhilarating. The landings (usually morning and afternoon) were varied and fascinating. Kayaking in the Southern Ocean with a whale in the surroundings was an unforgettable experience.
The helicopter^ experience was fantastic. How many times in your life do you have the opportunity to take off from and land on a ship? I felt like I was starring in a movie. Our pilot, Cristina, was so knowledgeable and enthusiastic and the perspective from 9,500 ft. up was just incredible. As far as we could see, in every direction there was ice and snow. My husband also experienced the submersible^ dive on Scenic Neptune and was thrilled. Submerging 210 ft. below sea level, seeing parts of the ocean rarely seen by humans, is something really special.
LEFT: A humpback whale gliding
Lifelong travel memories
Scenic Eclipse limits her guest numbers to only up to 200 guests in Antarctica, which gave us an incredible advantage. As IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) caps guests on shore to 100 at a time and ships over 200 guests from reaching several pristine sites, Scenic guests are able to enjoy multiple daily excursions, with the option of both landings and Zodiac cruises.
This small-ship cruising mode also enhances your on board experience. It is easy to strike up conversations and form friendships with fellow guests; we all bonded over feelings of excitement, gratitude and wonder. Wide-eyed chatter, beaming smiles and laughter were shared all day, from dinner to the entertainment at the state-of-the-art theater; the Zodiac excursions to the iconic Polar Plunge. We all snapped photo after photo, hoping to capture that one image that would do the scenery justice.
I am lucky to say that my husband and I have travelled (and cruised) a lot around the world. Antarctica on the magnificent Scenic Eclipse was truly an exceptional experience – one highlight after the other, creating memories that will last a lifetime.
RIGHT: Zodiac excursion in Charlotte Bay
What to pack for Antarctica
Leonie shares tips on what to bring (or leave behind) on your first expedition in the White Continent.
Your essentials
Two pairs of waterproof pants, two pairs of gloves, two beanies, and multiple pairs of warm socks. That way, you have a dry option to wear for an afternoon landing if you get wet on the morning trip.
We took ski goggles and sunglasses, but you could just take sunglasses (a good quality pair to cut out the glare).
What I wished I had taken
I could have used a strap on my sunglasses, a strap on my iPhone, a waterproof case for my phone and a ski headband.
Don't worry about packing
There's no need to bring ski boots or parka, as you'll use Scenic's complimentary gear. You’ll be asked to select the desired size for your parka (which is yours to keep) and polar boots prior to your voyage. But if you need a different size once you’re on board, the team will promptly assist you in finding the perfect fit. We thought tennis shoes were fine to wear outside on deck.
You also do not need to take adapters nor a power board. There are USB outlets either side of the bed, and universal power points that fit all plugs.
The writer travelled to Antarctica on Scenic Eclipse at her own expense.